This one is going to test me

Ok, Ok Enough with the small talk-----pictures or it didn't happen.

Hiding a repaired crack is all but impossible. I have seen others sand area near the crack-very carefully- and save the dust. Then that dust is mixed in with the glue. When the glue is applied, and squeezed out of the crack as it is drawn together, the excess glue that is exposed is scraped off with a knife edge-NOT wiped off with a damp rag, as is the customary method. After everything is dry, a light final sanding removes any trace amount of glue near the crack, and if the moons are in alignment----the crack is virtually hidden.
I have seen this done a couple of times, but for no good reason, haven't tried it myself---yet. But, I want to see this forearm.

I will post some pics of the progress tonight

Checkering with need some work. Picture makes the joint look worse than it is.

And we have issues. Not sure if my clamping force was too much or what the deal is but the other crack I glued opened up. Should have stuck with my gut and used Titebond but I decided to try PVA glue. I have no idea how I will repair the bad repair

It can be fixed I’m pretty sure. Hopefully Biz we come around soon and tell me how to fix it

Hello,

Justin I am sorry it doesn’t work the way you hope. There is always a danger by giving advice and opinions on "how to do". Did the joint open after being glued or was it open when you removed the "clamping"? Here is a link to Midway USA fixing cracks



and some pics of cracks repairs I did using polyurethane glue, which I still believe is the glue for that kind of job. Normally you can unglued your wood if you return it into the acetone. Sorry for my poor English, my wife is out grocery shopping








In this picture you can see the hair line of white glue.

Marc I believe it broke from clamping the other joint. It was the first crack that I glued. I think I had too much force on the top of the stock and it caused the sides to bow in and it stressed the joint.

For a good solid joint the gap between the two pieces to be glued must be between 0,003" and 0,006". I have a couple forearm that are cracked, I will give a try this weekend.

His living involves working with wood

I put the forearm in an acetone bath again. Hopefully tomorrow night I can move forward

We make laminated solid wood panel everyday. But gluing old contaminated wood is a good challenge.

Why don’t you try with the Titebound glue this time. It would be interesting to see the result

So even though I am bummed that forearm is being a challenge this one is turning out pretty good.

If I can get all the old pva glue out I will either try Titebond or E6000

This is the other side. I really like the French Red filler.