I'm fairly sure I've got a 1953 Belgium auto 5 , would like to learn more about it , the serial number is just above the loading gate it is ; FN in a oval circle, then under that the letter H and under that a four digit number ; 2 xxx , Left side of the barrel ; Browning Arms Company St. Louis Mo. *special steel-12-Ga-shells 2 3/4 Right side of the barrel ; Made In Belgium . and various proof marks ... Will post pictures in a few days , is this a " run of the mill " standard weight 12 ? Thanks , Ken
It's a full-choked standard weight 12 from 1953 all right. Whether or not it's run-of-the-mill depends on condition. You've got one of the first H prefixed guns. Serial numbers ran from H-01 on 11/4/1953 to H-100000 on 8/31/1956. The Light Twelve got an "L", running from L-01 on 10/23/1953 to L-99877 on 5/1/1956. In 1956 the codes changed to "M" and "G" respectively and was used for another 100,000 serials each. As a late production 1953 Auto-5, there's a good chance your shotgun has Speed Load, which was introduced that year.
Speed Load is a feature invented by Val Browning that addressed the biggest complaint of Auto-5 owners -- loading the magazine. On guns not equipped, the carrier button must be depressed to load, which leads to an awkward grip on the shotgun. Speed Load incorporated a two-piece carrier that allows a comfortable grip while stuffing the shells in. Not only that, but if the bolt is locked to the rear, the first shell will be whisked into the chamber and the bolt will slam into battery. If you can move your carrier without pushing the button, you've got it. Only a few guns produced in 1953 got it. Even some from 1954 don't have it as older parts got used up. The new carrier is visible in this picture:
I have to push the carrier button to load the magazine , so it doesn't have speed load . I want to use this shotgun for trap shooting but I'm almost positive that only lead shot is safe for my auto 5 ?
Only Japanese barrels with screw-in chokes are said to be safe for steel shot. I have heard that of those who choose to shoot steel anyway, their chokes wear and the patterns open up. Many report a bulged barrel. Whether or not this happens with target loads, I don't know. These guns were designed for the duck blind and shot larger than #7 1/2. But why would you shoot Trap with steel shot? Like playing baseball with whiffle balls.
I've never shot trap ... plan on joining the local gun club , don't know if it's ok to shoot lead or not , is a full choke the way to go for trap ? what size lead shot is safe for my barrel ?
Non toxic shot is required for US waterfowl hunting. The vast majority of other shooting uses lead shot, which is just about the perfect projectile. A full choke might be a little tight for 16 yard Trap, and just about perfect at the 27 yard line. I find Skeet and Sporting Clays much more fun than Trap, but your Full Choke would be an even greater disadvantage. You could have the choke opened, have it fit for screw-in chokes, or buy another barrel.
I suppose a second barrel would be my option , want to keep everything all original , any ideas on a second barrel , would there be any issue with the wood forend grip ?
I'd check eBay. Buying a new barrel would likely cost more than buying a second gun, which isn't a bad idea. I like the hated Poly Choke on my shooters. I've found I'll change chokes more when using it than when shooting a gun with screw-ins that may be better but a PITA to change. Best of all, Poly equipped guns and barrels go for considerably less than fixed choke guns.
Thanks for all the information , guess I better get going today so I can figure out how to invest more into my auto 5 , hopefully I'll get some detail photos posted this evening
Looking over this thread, it looks like I've left unanswered questions. First, any 2 3/4" lead shot shell is safe for your shotgun. Stay away from steel, which is much more expensive and much less effective. The forearm is the weakest part of the Auto-5. They take a pounding with every shot as the barrel moves back and forth. Most older guns' forearms will show a crack. Most cracks aren't serious and can be easily repaired. If you are concerned that a new barrel will require fitting to the wood, don't be. Barrels seem to "drop in" even on older guns. By the 1953 they stopped putting the serial number on the barrel, evidently being confident in the standardization.
