Thanks buddy. Need to seal the checkering still so I’m not completely done. Might put it on eBay and see what it goes for
Buy overpriced beat to hell stock. Soak stock in CitriStrip in a garbage bag for 24 hours. When that’s done give it a good scrub with minerals spirits and a nylon brush. I normally let it dry for 24 hours. I then soak in a 5 gallon bucket of acetone to get the oil out. I then throw it in a oven I had the insulators build for me at work. I bake for an hour at 125 degrees. Then it goes back into the acetone for another 24 hours. I will repeat this for until the oil stops seeping out of the wood. This has taking up to a month on some stocks. Then I mask off the checkering and start the sanding process. I normally start at 100 grit and give the whole thing a light sand. I then raise any dents with a wet rag and an old clothes iron. Then if there are scratches that are severe I will carefully use a card scraper to remove them. Then I go to 120, 150 and generally stop at 180 grit. I found if I go to a finer grit the stock won’t take the stain. I then fill the pores with Art’s French red stock filler. I follow the directions on the can. It then sits for another 24-48 hours. I then start the finishing process with Peo Custom Oil from Brownells. I fill a syringe and put a few drops on the stock and rub the oil in until it’s dry. I let it sit for one to two days in between coats. I repeat for at least 12 coats many times I’ll go to 18 coats. I then pull the masking tape off the checkering and chase the checkering with a single point cutter. Then I will apply some pro custom oil cut with 50% minerals spirits to the checkering. I do two to three coats applied with a toothbrush. I am careful not to get the thinned oil on the stock. If I do I wipe it off right away with a rag. Sometimes I let them cure for a few weeks and then knock down the gloss with a felt pad and rotten stone. This one I haven’t done yet. I might leave it as is.
That sure is a lot of work. You got more patience than I. Guess that’s why your wood look so damn good. I have patience to reload, shoot all day long or sit under a tree on a hunt waiting for the big one, guess maybe it’s your calling.
Soak stock in CitriStrip in a garbage bag for 24 hours. When that’s done give it a good scrub with minerals spirits and a nylon brush. I normally let it dry for 24 hours. I then soak in a 5 gallon bucket of acetone to get the oil out. I then throw it in a oven I had the insulators build for me at work. I bake for an hour at 125 degrees. Then it goes back into the acetone for another 24 hours. I will repeat this for until the oil stops seeping out of the wood. This has taking up to a month on some stocks. Then I mask off the checkering and start the sanding process. I normally start at 100 grit and give the whole thing a light sand. I then raise any dents with a wet rag and an old clothes iron. Then if there are scratches that are severe I will carefully use a card scraper to remove them. Then I go to 120, 150 and generally stop at 180 grit. I found if I go to a finer grit the stock won’t take the stain. I then fill the pores with Art’s French red stock filler. I follow the directions on the can. It then sits for another 24-48 hours. I then start the finishing process with Peo Custom Oil from Brownells. I fill a syringe and put a few drops on the stock and rub the oil in until it’s dry. I let it sit for one to two days in between coats. I repeat for at least 12 coats many times I’ll go to 18 coats. I then pull the masking tape off the checkering and chase the checkering with a single point cutter. Then I will apply some pro custom oil cut with 50% minerals spirits to the checkering. I do two to three coats applied with a toothbrush. I am careful not to get the thinned oil on the stock. If I do I wipe it off right away with a rag. Sometimes I let them cure for a few weeks and then knock down the gloss with a felt pad and rotten stone. This one I haven’t done yet. I might leave it as is.[/QUOTE] Thank you Justin for sharing your experience and expertise. Does that long process damage the wood?
You are welcome Marc. I don’t think it’s hurting the wood at all. I don’t think the acetone penetrates deep enough to suck the moisture out. I don’t think the little bit that I bake the wood dries it out either. Pure speculation though, I should borrow my buddies wood moisture meter and do a before and after. Most stocks it only takes a day or two to get rid of the oil. Some over oiled wood is awful. I can usually tell by the weight of the stock. The other reason why I don’t think there is any damage is the reinforcement piece on the forend has never came loose.
Need some help with a stock for my beretta. Adding 410 barrels to the 28 gauge, so I will need new wood to make it match. This set is at Cole Gunsmithing. The sales rep pointed this out and agreed to lower the price a little. The set is pretty expensive so don’t wanna have any issues, but I’m not a wood guy. The knot in the red circle has been filled at the factory. My question is: is this thing gonna split or crack where the knot is. Cole rep says it’s not an issue. What do you guys think?