I have a Lightweight 81 (non takedown model) I installed Uncle Mike's sling hardware, and attached to the forend bolt. My question is, does the torque on the forend bolt affect accuracy? Should it be tightenned very securely, or just snugged? Thanks in advance for your info.
if your are referring to the bolt that goes all the way from the front of the forearm to the receiver (which i assume you are), keeping that bolt tight aids in accuracy. So try to get it tight if you can. What year BLR is it?
I believe it is a 2006 model, Japanese made. Yes the bolt that attaches the forearm to the receiver. My rifle started slinging shots all over the paper, but I took the scope off and with irons it is more accurate than my eyes. The scope seemed solidly mounted, I'll reattach the mounts and try again. I can see that bolt affecting accuracy, particularly if the forearm is applying pressure to the barrel. Thanks for the reply, Billy
Repairing my 1990 Blr 308 and need new B3475046 Breech bolt lock, B3475060 Cocking gear and B3475070 Cocking lever stop. Any places to look for good prices? I am in Alberta Canada.
i know a couple of people that have ordered parts from midwestgunworks.com before and didnt have any complaints from it but luckily havent had to order any parts for my brownings yet.
Im working on a takedown blr in 308 win that suddenly went from 3/4"groups to 3"groups. I have cleand the bore checked the crown checked and rechecked the scope mounts and rings. I have lots of experience on bolt action and marlins and win levers but this is the first blr ive ever worked on. Any ideas of what to look at next would be great.
One thing that sets the BLR apart from other lever actions is the locking lug arrangement. This is the feature that makes a BLR as accurate as a bolt action, so any sudden change in accuracy would lead me to look at this area. Check for wear on the lugs, and make sure they seat fully in the receiver. Any free play here will adversely affect accuracy. Oops... Didn't notice the date until now, but I'll post it anyway.
The magazines for my 358W BLR are made of such thin steel I can flex the walls with my hand grip, and bulge when loaded with 4 rounds enough that inserting them into the magazine well is difficult. This is a problem because the magazine lips are also thin and soft. Fortunately, I have a gunsmith who owns a 308 BLR so he has the proper tools for rebending the magazine lips. For a thousand dollar rifle the cost cutting on the only way to reload it is hard to excuse. Come on Browning (or Miroku, or whoever actually makes the magazines) use thicker and stronger steel. Lose the reinforcing vertical ribs that my case necks press against and bulge the magazine sidewall. I'm going on a black bear hunt in September and I may be in a ground blind. Because of the unreliable magazines, my 358 is staying home. But then, the most reliable magazines I have for my 1911s are old Parkerized military surplus.
Billy, anything you do to or with the fore end will affect accuracy and bullet point of impact. If you are resting the fore end on a sandbag, first try moving the sandbag back near the receiver. If that doesn't work put the back of your hand in the sandbag and the rifle in your hand. If that doesn't work, and especially if your want the rifle to shoot to the same place from a rest as it will when hand held, use a rolled up sleeping bag as a front rest. Sleeping bags work really well because the rifle sinks into the bag so there's less sideways motion, and they are soft enough the rifle doesn't bounce upward in recoil. I learned these lessons shooting a 338WM. Shot off a sandbag, the bullet hits 6" higher at 100 yards than when handheld.
