In another thread, I built a Frankenstein A5 from scratch. I included my other A5 in several of the photos in that thread. it’s all original and there is some very nice (but not browning or original ) wood engraving on the stock. Somewhere along the line, I acquired the notion that refinishing a firearm diminishes it’s value however, watching several videos in the effort to learn how to piece an Auto 5 together I see several experts who do re-blue these shotguns and it seems to improve their value. Well, now I am considering having the metal re-blued. I’m also considering changing the choke on the barrel from full to skeet or improved. I don’t think I will ever be hunting ducks or turkey. With the price of invector barrels, I’m not buying another anytime soon. Looking for guidance on how to proceed. Should I refinish the gun or leave it as is? I do not know the criteria for grading a finish but I would put it at 50%. There is some bluing on almost all of the gun but most of it is very thin. The reciever has faired much better than the barrel. I’ll add photos of the gun later tonight I might also be looking for guidance on the least invasive method of refinishing the stock. It might just be best to leave it as is.
First thing you won't ever get the $ value return for the effort. However if your into learning things and improving things for your own personal benefit and knowledge base and skills fine. Tip practice and learn techniques on a old barrel before you go playing with your intended item.
It’s your call. Often, those who re-blue these guns over polish, washing out the engraving and creating a too shiny, non-factory finish. Probably Art’s could make it look good, but it won’t be the rust blue of the original. And Auzzie is correct, you won’t increase its value enough to recoup the cost. As far as reaming the choke to IC, that’s an excellent idea. Full chokes aren’t even good for duck hunting any more because they can’t handle steel shot.
To really do the job properly takes a lot of time and effort to work super carefully around stamped markings and lettering so not to wash or round anything off as Rudolph stated. This is harder than what it sounds and once you commit your all in no going back or giving up..... your bound to follow through to completely finish. I use my own home brand made hardened carbon steel scrapers from reamer blades and ground files under a head loup. Then your spending many hours maintaining square edges and carefully removing any marks. If it's pitted then it can be game over before you start and not even worth considering as Ranger alluded to. Not everything on YouTube is true either and it's up to you to determine fact or fiction and to the skills or background of people doing their channel, post or reel. Nothing is impossible it just takes time, money and effort whether that be antique clocks, vintage cars or outfoxing your fellow shooting buddies on skeet field or playing Canasta.
Thank you guys! I was thinking of having it professionally blued, as for opening the choke, I have a buddy who's a rather accomplished gunsmith, he'd be doing the work or I'd be doing it at his shop I do have that old fire victim barrel I could practice rust bluing myself... I doubt I will ever sell many of my guns that will be my kid's problems LOL
Your buddy the gunsmith will know somebody that can do the job right for sure. Some people out there hang a shingle on the door and call themselves professional charge a fortune and do average work or the quality of their work varies day to day depending how they wake up in the morning. You get burnt and realise the difference between a good job and crap is only attention to detail and the effort in equals results. The materials used are the same. That what drives the DIY energy and attitude in some of us. Dig out that burnt barrel and have a play.
I asked my gunsmith buddy about loading for my kids Montifeltro in 20…. I asked him for the time and he told me how a watch works… I love him that way, he is a wealth of information and his autism exceeds mine. Seems the wads for steel go all the way up the shot to protect the barrel from the steel.
Well, another buddy of mine is a FFL and he has once a month private range reserved every month, usally for getting high $$$ customers lessons on how to not shoot themselves. Anyways, he’s decided to do less of that and wants to make content videos on private range days. I don’t have anything all that exotic but I’m thinking of getting that fire victim running (full choke) renting a high speed camera and let’s see how it handles a 1 oz slug LMAO. Will require a string and some sand bags.
Steel shotgun shells have evidently come a long way. I think Browning’s warning against using it in Belgian barrels is obsolete. However, the general warning about full chokes is still valid, I believe. The reason is that unlike lead, the much harder steel shot will bulge the barrel if the choke is too tight. The superior patterns produced by steel make full chokes unnecessary anyway.
I’ve been looking into converting the rust. I’m gonna try on some pretty worthless Enfields first but I think ultimately I’m going to do that on this gun.
You can steam or boil. Both methods work fine. Plenty of YT out there. Being methodical with process and patient is the trick.
I explained my method of rust bluing in another thread somewhere here. Preparation is no less than 90% of the process. Gloves and removing every trace of any oil is of paramount importance. I love doing it. It's not difficult, but at the same time there are numerous details that will determine whether you end up with a quality job or a "Oh, this has been reblued in a back yard somewhere" job.
Well, I’ve been converting and even rust bluing a lot of guns lately. My family thinks I’m crazy now… where’s dad? He’s out boiling guns again. Hey dad, hows your gun boiling going? Sorry it’s addicting. I’ve saved some pretty amazing guns. An 1884 trap door and a rough rider adjacent 1896 Krag carbine top the list. I did finally get around to doing this barrel and it looks amazing but somehow it seems a fingerprint got through. I haven't done the receiver yet so when I get around to stripping down the receiver I’ll do another pass over the barrel or two and see if that fixes it.
Great you have taught yourself a useful new skill that can be applied to all sorts of things. Well done
I mean, this is the same barrel. Once you get the parts together, it’s so simple that an idiot like me can do it!!
