Hi guys Started to take down my 1930 A5 and I am a little confused by the carrier latch. In the field service manual it says to measure the gap at the hump using a 6inch rule specifically at the 4 inches point. My carrier latch is only about 3 inches long so I am perplexed as to how I should do this. Not sure if it's broken but picture is attached and I would appreciate some advice. Thanks!
I'm home now so I measured the carrier latches on 2 of my own guns, one from 1930 and another from 1984. Both latches measured approximately 2 5/8". That was confusing so I took another look at the FSM. If you'll note in the picture, the latch starts about 3 1/4" down the rule, and the 4" point is just used as a reference. Whatever is wrong with your carrier latch, it isn't the length. The ruler is just being used as a straight edge. As far as I can tell, this part hasn't changed throughout production. Here's a view of a new one: http://www.midwestgunworks.com/page/mgwi/PROD/B11110CLA You might want to give Art's Gun Shop a call; they're a friendly group and can give you valuable advice.
Thanks Rudolph31 that's really helpful and I apologise for being a bit of a newbie but this is my first A5. That's good to know I have polished it up a little and retensioned the spring slightly so hoping that when it all goes back it will work. I measured the gap as the FSM said and mine is pretty much bang of 1/16th of an inch. I'll continue stripping and cleaning the old girl and once done I want to refinish the stock with a nice oil finish. Loving this gun!
Happy to help. Hearing about other people's Auto-5 problems and trying to diagnose them helps me to learn also. By the way, I have my own Carrier Latch issues. Two of my guns, a 1948 "Stealth" Sixteen and a 1908 Remington Autoloading Gun both spit shells on the ground. I know it's the front of the latch not doing its job, but I'm reluctant to get in there and risk destroying the part when I rarely shoot these two. One of these days I'll take them over to Art's, who fortunately is only an hour away.
True enough. And I could just replace the parts -- which might be cheaper. But you are pretty much stuck adjusting the parts you have. I have found (the hard way) that it's usually better to do things myself than to trust someone I don't know who calls himself a "gunsmith". But you can still get Art on the phone. Tell him you're calling from England -- he'll be impressed at his fame.
