Re read your post. I am operating the charge handle, cause I haven’t fired it yet after the carrier binding on the side of receiver. It locks to the rear with charge handle and if you manually cycle with barrel. It happens when you push the button to release the bolt, and ride the handle foward so it don’t slam foward. If you don’t ride it foward the bolt will close. I don’t want to get to the range and have issue if possible, that’s why I actuate it by hand. It don’t feel right. I also noticed that if you bump the receiver with the palm of your hand, the bolt will slam foward, something slightly binding in my opinion. Which brings me back to the carrier or latch.
It could be the Carrier Latch, but you didn’t mess with that, and it worked before the project began. But the Dog is new...
maybe. I will probably order a new one this week. Along with new springs. I may try and make a video of this so you can actually see what I’m talking about
Missed one of your post about safety. I just don’t like the front(suicide) one. I don’t think it’s real safe and a pain to put on safe and take off. I’m used to cross bolt and it’s much easier on gun range to manipulate.
ok got the trigger off and never looked at one this way so not sure if what I seeing is my problem or not. None of my other guns have the carrier spring on the receiver so I have nothing to compare it too. Looks like carrier spring is stopping the carrier from snapping back up. Maybe I’m just searching but would hate to overlook a $9 part. This is original and never replaced.
Eating worms. I’m at the whits end. I’m going to try bolt, 2 piece carrier out of my 12 mag. If I still have the same problem it’s going to Art. By my research it should all be the same except the link in the standard is shorter, but I just happen to have one.
The trigger guard safety is similar to those on the M1 Garand and M14 rifles, and I’ve never heard anyone call one of them “suicide”. Your finger stays outside the guard to engage it, nothing unsafe about that. The original safety on the prototype and the first year guns was entirely inside the trigger guard, not the safest arrangement, which was why it was changed. Outside of that, I like the way it looks — especially the gold ones on the Sweet Sixteens. And I don’t use it at the range because the gun is either empty with the action open or I’m about to shoot. If I was hunting I’d use it, but I don’t think you can get a shot off faster with the cross bolt. Here’s the original, “Suicide Safety”:
Most of my guns have the Carrier Spring on the Receiver, and I find the ones on the Trigger Guard to be a PITA. Don’t plan on replacing it because they’re unavailable. I modified a Remington Model 11 spring once but it took a lot of fitting. If your Spring is pushing the Carrier down, it’s working. The Carrier Dog Spring is much more powerful and there’s nothing the Carrier Spring can do to stop it. If this was my project, I’d have sent it Art’s a while ago. The bolt slamming closed if the gun is jostled is alarming. And you’re spending more on new parts than he would charge you for the work.
very true. I guess it just eats at me cause I can’t make it work. Not sure what I’m missing, but I know art will. Guess I’m just gonna have to bite the bullet on this one, if I want speed function. It was going to him to get bluing anyway. I have a zoli o/u out getting blued now that’s pretty close to him and it made it, just hate sending them in the mail.
I recognize the problem with the carrier binding on the spring from my conversion. I know that I ended up using another spring than the original in the end. I also had to do some fitting on the carrier to avoid it rubbing against the receiver, and use a different carrier latch so it might have been more than one cause, but the symptoms were they same as you describe. Trying another carrier spring or adjusting the one you have might be the way to go. I luckily had two to try out, and I remember them being quite different in both length and angle. Will take my converted apart later and compare to your pictures.
Ok later became sooner. Was intrigued so couldn't keep away. Have a look at this picture of my carrier spring and where it sits on the carrier. When this picture was taken I was pushing the carrier up into the receiver as far as it would go.
Very strange kumpe. What year is yours? Do you have old style bolt or new style. I haven’t been able to get back to mine but will probably order some parts this week. I went through several locking block latch’s. Believe I might have the right one. And I tried 3 different 2 piece carriers before getting one that worked. My A5 is a 1936 standard, so I guess I wasn’t crazy after all. Glad you posted. Stay tuned there will be more. If you could get a good picture of your locking block latch would be great, if you have old style bolt. I believe the new bolt has to have the locking block latch that Midwest gunworks recommends.
Don't know about old vs. new bolt, to be honest I didn't know there were different kinds. Mine is from 1928 and I have no real experience in later models. I will take mine apart again tonight and take some photos.
And anyway, would the bolt even matter in this case, with the carrier getting stuck in the upper position? When comparing our pictures it looks like we ran into the same problem, the carrier spring is too short and is "slipping off" the carrier.
I believe that is the cause. And yes there are two different breech blocks. Old style has a thinner rail that the locking block rides on. If you need a new breech block then you will get the new( thicker) rail, as the old one is prone to break off. If you replace the breech block with the new thicker rail you have to replace several other things also. Not much info on this out there, but I did call Midwest and they did say that the locking block latch sits foward in a new breech block.
Took mine apart and compared the carrier spring that I'm using to the original. Hard to get any useful measurements when the two springs differ in both angle and length, but here's the best I can do. In the attached photo the two springs are placed around the same axis and compressed slightly. Couldn't manage to take a picture and a measurement at the same time but the length of the side of the carrier spring that is pushing against the carrier is .05" longer on the one that I'm using. This apparently was the difference needed for my carrier. Note that both of the guns that these springs were originally from are from 1928, so it appears they can differ quite a bit even when this close in production.
I see there is a difference. Can you place the one that you use on a tape measure and take a pic. Line the back of it up with a number.( where you have the pin through). These springs are not available. I’m gonna take apart a model 11 and look at that spring. Some of those are out there. May see if someone can make one. looked at wolf springs last night. They offer one for A5/Remington/savage. I will pull mine apart tonight and measure spring.
I will take it apart again and measure as soon as I get a chance. Don't know if the measurements will help you though, I might just be that the carrier and other related parts are individuals when it comes to dimensions as well. But that's just pure speculation from my side. Will report back with measurements/pictures ASAP.
Thank you. I think if I ever have success I will post all of our thoughts in one place. Would be nice to have a reference for the next person that wants to do this.
